- Only operated by qualified operators, trainings will be organized with some regularity
- Operators must properly fill the logbook
- Lifting the honeycomb must not be done alone (it's easy to break and costs 1800EUR to replace)
- You probably don't need it anyway unless you're doing tiny things or fabrics.
- Never leave machine unattended even for a moment when it is cutting (significant risk of fire)
- Never touch the laser lens/nozzle combo.
- Use only pure distilled water (akkuvesi) as cooling water, do not add anything else to the cooling water.
- Since the Laser-SW requires admin rights we must allow admin logins (bad but unavoidable), this means this machine will not be used for general purpose anything and only the superusers are allowed to install anything (sw, browser extensions, anything) on it or adjust adblocker/noscript settings.
- We also highly recommend using some other machine for looking cool designs etc from the internet and then moving the files with an USB memory stick instead, just to reduce risk of malware infections due to unscrupulous advertisers etc.
In case of fire
- Small fire: open lid, try to blow it out.
- If does not go out with blowing, use the fire-blanket.
- If blanket does not solve the issue use CO2 extinguisher, leave the room, close the door and inform everyone at the lab. Email the board.
- If the CO2 extinguisher did not solve the issue: evacuate lab, call fire brigade, inform the board.
Q & A
- Cutting area: 1600 × 900 mm with through feed.
- SW used: Autolaser
- File formats:
- Adobe Illustrator
- BMP/JPG/PNG, can be loaded directly, but can only be used for engraving.
- "ISO" Gerber
- SVG is NOT SUPPORTED.
Notes on DXF files
- DXF produced by Fusion 360 has problems with splines (according to the internet, Fusion uses 5th degree splines and most laser programs support 3rd degree at most. Fusion 360 has a plugin by autodesk that saves DXF as polylines and it appears to work really well )
- There is a plugin for Fusion 360 called DXF for Laser, which takes a face and produces a clean DXF (without construction lines) and allows adjustment of the borders to account for the laser cut width. This has been used successfully with out laser.
- Inkscape can be used to create paths / vectorize bitmaps / convert SVG / etc. You must use "Break Apart" feature to split paths to line segments and then save as DXF.
Basically everything but metals and stuff that produces poisonous/corrosive gas. Why not metal? Short answer: Metal reflects IR too well to be cut with IR laser. Marking metals is possible, though.
- See http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials
Basic plywood from hardware store is glued with dark glue (Fenolihartsi). Will cut but leaves dark edges and a lot of soot.
Can be bought almost every hardware store with drive-in-hall, eg. K-rauta, Bauhaus etc.
3mm wont cut thru with 90% 25mm/s single pass, 2 pass ok.
For 1 mm plywood, values for cutting saved on the laser computer worked well.
Better for laser cutting. No dark glue between wood. "Urealiimattu" (ureaformaldehydipohjainen liima) vaneri (EN 314-2, luokka 1, interior; esim. UPM Wisa Interior).
Where to buy:
- Very thin birch plywood (0.4 mm to 2.5 mm) can be found in 30 x 30 cm pieces from Hobby-Point (shop in Kamppi). They're quite expensive, at ~8€ per piece. It cuts very well.
- Full boards can be found from Lahti, http://www.murtoraja.com/vaneri 152x152 4mm 50 euros, price can vary.
- Plywood and veneer available from Mahogany.
90% 25mm/s single pass was good cut for 3mm.
- Leftover pieces, various thicknesses (have seen at least 2, 3 and 4mm clear some white) 8e / kg
- Full boards 40-190e / m2, 10e for sawing
POM / POM-C
- The sturdiest material to cut for machine parts
- Tjl is setting up a stash that will be open to use, see POM-stash
Start of operation checklist
- Open the log form, fill in your name and the current time.
- There is also link on the desktop of the computer.
- Get keys from their defined storage location.
- Check log entries for when the water was last replaced, if it was over 4 weeks ago, replace water (again: only distilled water with no additives). Email the board to let them know that more water is needed.
- If you did not replace water: Check log entries for when the water level was last checked, if it was not already done today, check level and add water if needed. Take care not to let any contaminants in when checking or adding. If water can be seen, its ok. Mark in log accordingly.
- Make sure the honeycomb is not installed (when the machine resets it will raise the bed, if the honeycomb is on this will lead it it crash into the cutting-head)
- Use keys to turn on power
- Turn on blower (switch)
- Adjust bed for correct focus distance for your material
- Did you change material ? If yes, re-check focus distance
- Adjust head position, set origin (NOTE: the red helper dot might not be pointing exactly to the cutting point, use "pulse" to verify)
- Make sure you know which point of your cutting job you should set as origin in the machine.
- Use "border view" (sw) or "range" (panel) to verify bounding-box of cut.
- DON'T enable "idemitsu" flag. This will turn on the cutting laser during the border view, even if the lid is open
- Make sure blower is on (switch)
- Make sure lid is closed
- Start cutting, keep close watch on what is happening.
- Risk of fire
- Settings may need tuning
- When done cutting wait 30-60 seconds for fume extraction before opening lid.
End of operation checklist
- Remove honeycomb if installed
- Raise bed to top
- Turn off blower (switch)
- Fill uptime, laser on time & work time to log
- Turn off machine (keys)
- Clean up the bottom "drop area" in case you dropped something.
- Finish filling up the log form (notes, end time) and submit.
- Failure to submit logbook will result in suspension of "qualified operator" -status.
- Put the computer to sleep or just leave it to go to sleep by itself, do not shutdown it completely.
- Return keys to their defined storage location.